Opération 31 : Physique du littoral
Author: Eric Barthélemy
Le déferlement bathymétrique des houles à l’approche de la côte génère des courants moyens tels que la dérive littorale ou les courants de baïnes (rip currents). Ces courants (...)
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Home > Teams > MEIGE team > Research Topics > Gravity Waves : internal waves & waves in the nearshore > Waves in the nearshore
Waves in the nearshore
Beaches submitted to energetic swells, wave breaking occuring in shallow zones (bathymetric breaking) plays a dominant role in coastal zones dynamic. A better understanding of this phenomenon together with a detailled analysis of the induced wave generation mechanisms, in particular in presence of irregular bathymetries (cross-shore sand bars) and irregular incident waves, is important both from a fundamental point of view and to improve the parameterisation of these phemonenon in meso-scale models (10x10 km2).