When approaching the coast the propagation of random wave fields on uneven bathymetries triggers spatially non-uniform wave breaking, inducing energy dissipation gradients in the surf zone that generates mean currents. We aim at investigating and characterizing with a 2D non-linear shallow-water equations numerical model the nearshore circulation forced by a random wave field propagating over non-uniform bathymetry in comparison with 3D morphodynamic laboratory experiments of rip-channels. A lagrangian particle tracking model provide quantitative information about drifter movement.
Supervisory authorities
Our partners
Search
Home > Teams > MEIGE team > Scientific communications > Group seminars
Lagrangian drifter modelling on an experimental rip current
Leandro Suarez-Atias, 28/06/2012
